Brick Road Seamless Sideways Sweater

Free Sweater Knitting Pattern. There are free patterns for matching hat and cowl.

This should be called the NEARLY-Seamless Sweater, as actually there are two seams, one on each side. However, the sleeves are worked seamlessly in rounds, and everything else is seamless also. For a sideways sweater, I think this is as good as it's going to get! :)

I like sideways construction for sweaters, because it seems to me that they are easier to customize for a perfect fit. Plus, it is much easier to add a vertically-oriented motif, like the Color Brick motif I used in this pattern. I think the pastel colors of the Noro (affiliate link) Kureyon yarn complement the black main color very well, and this was what inspired the name Brick Road (reference to the Wizard of Oz's Yellow-Brick Road, of course).

The sweater is worked sideways, with modified armhole, 3-needle bind-off side seams and in-the-round sleeves. Since this kind of armhole needs to be worked from the bodice to sleeves, the sweater starts from the left side with provisional cast on and is worked to the right, including the head opening. At the right edge, stitches are divided into the armhole sts and side sts. The side sts are then worked separately for the front and for the back and are bound off using the 3-needle bind off technique. Then the armhole sts (including the stitches picked up at the underarm) are worked for the sleeve in rounds, with short row shaping for the cap of the sleeve and rib st at the end.

For the left side, the cast on stitches are picked up and divided into armhole sts and side sts the same way as on the right side. The left sleeve is worked symmetrically to the right sleeve. Ribs at the neck and around the bottom are knitted to finish the sweater. The sweater is decorated with 2-Color Brick strips running vertically down from the shoulders. The front is shaped with short-row darts (no darts for size S). Note that the darts are worked differently on the left and right side because of the way the sweater is constructed. The right dart is worked as decreases throughout, while one end of the left dart is worked with increases and the other is worked with decreases (see diagram)

Sizes: S (M, L, XL, 2X, 3X)

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Chest: 36 (40, 44, 48, 52, 56) inches [90 (100, 110, 120, 130, 140) cm]
Length: 23 (24, 25, 26, 26, 26) inches [58 (60, 63, 65, 65, 65) cm]

Materials: Knitpicks Wool of the Andes Worsted Yarn, color Black, 50 g / 100 m (110 yards) - 11 (13, 13, 15, 17, 19) skeins. (MC)
Noro (affiliate link) Silk Garden [45% Mohair, 45% Silk, 10% Wool; 110 yd/101 m per 50g skein] color 205; 1 skein (CC)

Needles: US 6 (4.0 mm) circular OR SIZE NEEDED TO OBTAIN GAUGE

Gauge for stockinette st:
18 sts x 24 rows = 4” x 4” (10 cm x 10 cm)

Pattern Notes

Stockinette Stitch in rows
1 row and all odd rows - knit sts
2 row and all even rows - purl sts

Stockinette Stitch in rounds:
All rows - knit.

2-Color Brick pattern

Multiple of 10 plus 6
Row 1 (MC): knit
Row 2 (MC): knit
Row 3 (CC): k 2, *sl2 wyib, k8, repeat from * across to last 4 sts, sl2 wyib, k2
Row 4 (CC): p2, *sl2 wyif, p8, repeat from * across to last 2 sts, sl2 wyif, p2.
Row 5 (CC): repeat row 3.
Row 6 (CC): repeat row 4.
Rows 7-10 (MC): knit
Row 11 (CC): k7, *sl2 wyib, k8, repeat from * across ending with k7.
Row 12 (CC): p7, *sl2 wyif, p8, repet from * across ending with p7.
Row 13 (CC): repeat row 3.
Row 14 (CC): repeat row 4.
Rows 15-18 (MC): knit
Rows 19-22 (CC): repeat rows 3-6.
Rows 23-24 (MC): repeat rows 1-2

Click image to enlarge

Abbreviations:
k - knit
p – purl
sl2 wyib - slip 2 with yarn in back
sl2 wyif - slip 2 with yarn in front
ssk - slip, slip, knit (left leaning decrease)
k2tog – knit 2 together (right leaning decrease)
M1 (Make 1 increase) - I used the increase described by Elizabeth Zimmerman: Make a backward loop over the right-hand needle and in the next row knit (purl) it as a regular stitch.
RS – right side
WS – wrong side
w&t - wrap and turn

Selvedge stitches: first st slip as if to knit, last st purl

To wrap and turn in the short rows:

With yarn in front sl 1 stitch to the right needle
Move yarn between the needles to the back
Slip the stitch back to the left needle
Turn the work and bring the yarn back to the wrong side between the needles

Sweater

The sweater is worked sideways, with modified armhole, 3-needle bind-off side seams and in-the-round sleeves. Since this kind of armhole needs to be worked from the bodice to sleeves, the sweater starts from the left side with provisional cast on and is worked to the right, including the head opening. At the right edge, stitches are divided into the armhole sts and side sts. The side sts are then worked separately for the front and for the back and are bound off using the 3-needle bind off technique. Then the armhole sts (including the stitches picked up at the underarm) are worked for the sleeve in rounds, with short row shaping for the cap of the sleeve and rib st at the end.

For the left side, the cast on stitches are picked up and divided into armhole sts and side sts the same way as on the right side. The left sleeve is worked symmetrically to the right sleeve. Ribs at the neck and around the bottom are knitted to finish the sweater. The sweater is decorated with 2-Color Brick strips running vertically down from the shoulders. The front is shaped with short-row darts (no darts for size S). Note that the darts are worked differently on the left and right side because of the way the sweater is constructed. The right dart is worked as decreases throughout, while one end of the left dart is worked with increases and the other is worked with decreases (see diagram)

Body (Left Shoulder)

Cast on 216 (222, 231, 239, 246, 254) stitches using provisional cast on method and work stockinette st. In the 1st row place a marker after 108 (109, 113, 117, 121, 126) st. This marks the line between the front and the back. On a conventionally-constructed sweater, this would be the shoulder seam. Place another marker after the 65th (71, 71, 71, 73, 73) st from the end of the row. This marks the location of the left dart. (Note: no darts in size S, the number is given for the sake of the consistency).

Work 6 (10, 12, 16, 22, 26) rows of stockinette. Starting from row 3 increase by 1 st by working m1 before the dart marker in every odd row 0 (4, 5, 7, 10, 12) times. Total after dart increases should be 216 (230, 241, 243, 256, 268) sts.

Starting from row 7 (11, 13, 17, 23, 27) work 24 rows of 2-Color Brick pattern color stripe (see Pattern Notes above).

Work 2 more stockinette st rows.

Back and Back Neck Shaping

On the next RS row work stitches to the first marker (shoulder seam placement). Transfer the rest of the stitches to another circular needle. Continue to work the back stitches only. Decrease by 1 st in every RS row 2 (2, 3, 3, 3, 5) times by working k2tog at the end of the row (the 2 sts before the last [selvedge] st). Total 4 (4, 6, 6, 6, 10) rows.

Work 26 (28, 28, 30, 30, 26) more rows.

Increase by 1 st in every RS row 2 (2, 3, 3, 3, 5) times by working m1 at the end of the row, before the last st. Total 4 (4, 6, 6, 6, 10) rows. Set aside.


Front and Front Neck Shaping

Transfer the front sts to your working needles and continue to work RS row. Bind off first 5 (6, 6, 7, 7, 8) sts. Decrease by 1 st in every RS row 5 (5, 6, 6, 7, 7) times by working ssk at the beginning of the row (2 sts after the first [selvedge] st). Total 10 (10, 12, 12, 14, 14) rows.

Work 14 (16, 16, 18, 14, 18) more rows as established.

Increase by 1 st in every RS row 5 (5, 6, 6, 7, 7) times by working m1 at the end of the row, before the last st. Total 10 (10, 12, 12, 14, 14) rows. At the end of last WS row, cast on 5 (6, 6, 7, 7, 8) sts.

Right Shoulder

To work back and front together again, work RS row starting from back, then continue over the cast-on sts of the right neck and the front sts. The stitch count should be 216 (230, 241, 243, 256, 268) sts once again.

Work 2 rows.

Starting from next row, work 24 rows of 2-Color Brick pattern color stripe (see Pattern Notes above).

Work 6 (10, 12, 16, 22, 26) rows of stockinette. While working these rows, starting from the 3rd row after the 2-Color-Brick Stripe, decrease for 1 st by working k2tog before the dart marker in every odd row 0 (7, 9, 11, 13, 14) times. Since there are not enough rows in this section to accommodate all the required decreases, they are continued in the next section. Total sts before division is 216 (222, 231, 239, 246, 254) sts (same as cast on).

Divide for Sides and Sleeve

In the next RS row work 69 (75, 75, 75, 77, 77) st, place marker. This is the end of the rear side. Continue to work across to the 69th (78, 79, 79, 80, 79) st from the end of the row. Place marker. This is the beginning of the front side. This marker will be close to the dart marker, since there are some sts remaining to be decreased for the dart. Work to the end of the row, turn. Work to the front side marker. Work total 10 (10, 12, 12, 12, 14) rows, continue to decrease the required number of sts for the dart (see section above). Leave sts on spare needle.

Work the rear side in the same way for total of 10 (10, 12, 12, 12, 14) rows.

Fold the sweater at the shoulder with the right sides inwards. Align the front and rear side parts. Bind off the st with 3-needle bind off method starting at the bottom ends of the side panels. The top edges of the side panels form the underarm.

Right Sleeve

The sleeves are worked in the rounds, without seams.

Row 1: with right side facing, knit the remaining stitches to the 10th st past the marker, wrap, turn.
Row 2: purl to the 10th st on the other side of the marker, wrap, turn.
Row 3: knit to the 15th st past the marker, wrap, turn.
Row 4: purl to the 15th st on the other side of the marker, wrap, turn.
Row 5: knit to the 20th st past the marker, wrap, turn.
Row 6: purl to the 20th st on the other side of the marker, wrap, turn.
Knit to the end of the row, pick up and knit 11 (13, 15, 17, 19, 19) sts along the underarm, place a marker on the middle st, this will be the bottom "seam", where the decreases are worked.

Join to the 1st st and continue to work in rounds.

Decrease by 2 sts at marker by working sk2p (slip 1, k2tog, pass sl st over) at marker 11 (11, 7, 0, 0, 0) times in every 6th round, 11 (12, 19, 28, 26, 23) times in every 4th round and 0 (0, 0, 1, 6, 12) times in every 2nd round. Work the sleeve 112 (114, 116, 116, 116, 116) rounds or to desired length.

Work 1x1 rib for 10 rounds. Bind off.

Left Side

Remove the waste yarn from the provisional cast on and transfer the stitches to a circular needle. Place marker after the 69 (78, 79, 79, 80, 79) st. This is the end of the left front side. This marker will be close to the dart marker, since there are some sts remaining to be decreased for the dart. Place another marker after the 69 (75, 75, 75, 77, 77) st from the end of the row. This is the beginning of the rear side. Transfer the front side sts to another circular needle and work total 10 (10, 12, 12, 12, 14) rows, continue to decrease the required number of sts for the dart (see above). Leave sts on the spare needle.

Work the rear side in the same way for total of 10 (10, 12, 12, 12, 14) rows.

Fold the sweater at the shoulder with the right sides inwards. Align the front and rear side parts. Bind off the st with 3-needle bind off method starting at the bottom ends of the side panels. The top edges of the side panels form the underarm.

Left Sleeve

Work left sleeve the same way as right sleeve.

Finishing

Pick up stitches along the neckline and work 6 rounds of 1x1 rib. Bind off.

Pick up stitches along the bottom of the sweater and work 10 rounds (or to desired length) of 1x1 rib. Bind off.

Enjoy!