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EasyFree Cardigan Knitting Pattern
Note: pattern was updated on July 1, 2014.
The cardigan is knitted from the top down without seams and finished with I-cord edging. Although the cardigan is cropped as described in the pattern, it is easy to make a full-length cardigan simply by knitting more rows.
Sizes: S (M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X)
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Chest: 34 [38, 42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62] inches (86 [96, 106, 117, 127, 137, 147, 158] cm
Materials: Jo-Ann Sensations (affiliate link) Caribbean worsted weight yarn 465 yards (425 meters) / 170 grams, color Naturals - 1 (2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4) balls
Contrasting yarn of the same weight for the I-cord - about 50 yds.
Needles: circular US #6 (4.0 mm) OR SIZE NEEDED TO OBTAIN GAUGE
Stockinette in rows:
Row 1: knit
Row 2: purl
Repeat from row 1.
Stockinette in rounds:
All rounds knit.
Gauge for stockinette stitch: 20 sts x 28 rows = 4"x4" (10cm x 10cm) OR SIZE NEEDED TO OBTAIN GAUGE
Make 1 increase - I used the increase described by Elizabeth Zimmerman
Make a backward loop over the right-hand needle and in the next row purl as a regular stitch. See picture here
Directions:
The cardigan is worked from top to bottom, back and forth without seams.
Cast on 47 (49, 53, 57, 59, 63, 67, 69) sts and purl one row (wrong side). Divide sts as follows and place markers on raglan lines:
1st (selvedge) + 1st (front) + 1 st (raglan, place a marker) + 8 (8, 9, 10, 10, 11, 12, 12) sts (sleeve) + 1st (raglan, place a marker) + 23 (25, 27, 29, 31, 33, 35, 37) sts (back) + 1st (raglan, place a marker) + 8 (8, 9, 10, 10, 11, 12, 12) sts (sleeve) + 1 st (raglan, place a marker) + 1st (front) +1 st (selvedge)
Work stockinette - all even rows purl (wrong side), all odd rows knit (right side) - for 32 (30, 38, 46, 48, 42, 40, 42) rows increasing by 8 sts (double increase at the raglan sts) in each odd row as follows: M1, k1 (raglan st), M1 at the raglan st.
For another 30 (38, 36, 32, 36, 48, 56, 58) rows continue to increase back and fronts at raglan lines in each odd row. For sleeves now increase in every 4th row only for 8 (10, 9, 8, 9, 12, 14, 15) times.
At the same time increase by 1 st at the beginning and the end of the row (2 sts per row) in every 6th row 9 (10, 11, 11, 12, 13, 14, 14) times and in every 4th row for 2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 4) times.
Stitch count before division for sleeves: 297 (323, 359, 391, 419, 443, 469, 495).
Divide for sleeves
Row 63 (69, 75, 79, 85, 91, 97, 101): work the left front sts, transfer the left sleeve sts to a length of yarn, cast on 5 (8, 10, 13, 15, 18, 20, 23) sts with single cast on for the underarm, work back sts, transfer right sleeve sts to a length of yarn, cast on 5 (8, 10, 13, 15, 18, 20, 23) sts with single cast on and work right front stitches.
Continue to work bodice back and forth for 40 more rows or until desired length.
Bind off.
Sleeve
Sleeves are worked in rounds.
Transfer sleeve sts from the yarn to the needles and pick up 5 (8, 10, 13, 15, 18, 20, 23) sts over the 3 (4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7) underarm sts. Place a marker at the beginning of the round.
Work 10 rounds or to desired length.
Bind off.
Finishing
Work applied I-cord around the neck, center fronts and bottom of the cardigan.
See video instructions for knitting applied I-cord
With contrasting yarn work I-cord the same length as applied I-cord.
See video instructions for knitting I-cord
Sew on I cord along the applied I-cord.
The sleeves can be finished the same way: applied I-cord from the main color yarn and I-cord from contrasting color. Another option: applied I-cord from the contrasting yarn.
Enjoy!
