Rainbow Dragon Backpack

Free Backpack Crochet Pattern

Crocodile Stitch in Rounds Video Tutorial

I really like crocodile stitch, though I think it is too thick for most garments. However, this becomes an advantage when making a bag or backpack. In my stash, I happened to have self-striping Kauni (affiliate link) yarn featuring long color transitions, and it worked really well for this project. Matching self-striping yarn to a project is often a matter of guesswork, so I feel I got lucky with this one. The bottom, flap and straps were knitted using a solid black yarn to complement the colorful body of the bag.

If you don't have a yarn with long color transitions, you can achieve the same effect by using several solid yarns.

Probably the most challenging part of this pattern is crocheting crocodile stitch in rounds. I prepared a video explaining how to do this with the help of my wonderful assistants, and hopefully you find it helpful. If you have experience with crocodile stitch, this should present no problem at all. If you can figure out the crocodile stitch, the rest is actually pretty straightforward.

Skills Required/Techniques Used:

- Basic crochet stitches: chain (ch), single crochet (sc), double crochet (dc), half double crochet (hdc), slip stitch (sl.st)
- Decreasing with double crochet: 2 double crochet cluster (2dccl)
- Crocodile st in-the-round.

Size: height - 12 inches (30 cm), diameter - 9 inches (22.5 cm)

Materials:

• Kauni (affiliate link) Wool 8/2 Effektgarn sport weight yarn, 660 yards (604 meters) / 150 gr, color Rainbow - 1 skein (B)
• Kauni (affiliate link) Wool 8/2 Solids sport weight yarn, 660 yards (604 meters) /150 gr, color black - 1 skein (A)

Hook: E (3.50 mm)

Gauge is not important

Notions:
- Tapestry needle to weave in yarn ends
- A large button
- Sewing needle and thread of matching color to attach the button

Abbreviations:
st, sts - stitch, stitches
sc - single crochet
dc - double crochet
ch, chs - chain, chains
sp - space
sl.st. - slip stitch
MC - main color
CC - contrast color
RS - right side
WS - wrong side
bdc - back post dc


Short Overview of the Pattern

The backpack is worked from the bottom up, in-the-round. The bottom, the flap and the straps are worked in dc. The body of the backpack is worked in the crocodile stitch in-the-round.


BACKPACK

Bottom

With yarn A, ch 5, join with sl st to first chain to form a ring.

Round 1: ch 3 (count as 1 dc), 11 dc in ring, sl st to to top of ch 3. (12 sts)

Round 2: ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in the same st, 2 dc into each dc around, sl st to top of ch 3. (24 sts)

Round 3: ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in the same st, *1 dc in the next dc, 2 dc in next dc, repeat from * around to last dc, 1 dc in the last dc, sl st to top of ch 3 (36 sts)

Round 4: ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in the same st, *1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, 2 dc in the next dc, repeat from * around to last 2dc, 1 dc in each of the last 2 dc, sl st to top of ch 3. (48 sts)

Round 5: ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in the same st, *1 dc in each of the next 3 dc, 2 dc in the next dc, repeat from * around to last 3 dc, 1 dc in each of the last 3 dc, sl st to top of ch 3 (60 sts)

Round 6: ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in the same st, *1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, 2 dc in the next dc, repeat from * around to last 4 dc, 1 dc in each of the last 4 dc, sl st to top of ch 3 (72 sts)

Round 7: ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in the same st, *1 dc in each of the next 5 dc, 2 dc in the next dc, repeat from * around to last 5 dc, 1 dc in each of the last 5 dc, sl st to top of ch 3 (84 sts)

Round 8: ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in the same st, *1 dc in each of the next 6 dc, 2 dc in the next dc, repeat from * around to last 6 dc, 1 dc in each of the last 6 dc, sl st to top of ch 3 (96 sts)

Round 9: ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in the same st, *1 dc in each of the next 7 dc, 2 dc in the next dc, repeat from * around to last 7 dc, 1 dc in each of the last 7 dc, sl st to top of ch 3 (108 sts)

Round 10: ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in the same st, *1 dc in each of the next 8 dc, 2 dc in the next dc, repeat from * around to last 8 dc, 1 dc in each of the last 8 dc, sl st to top of ch 3 (120 sts)


Body

Round 11: ch 2 (counts as 1 bdc), back post dc (bdc) in each dc around.

Round 12: with yarn B: ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in the same st, *ch 2, skip 2 sts, 1 dc in the next st, ch 2, skip 2 sts, 2 dc in the next st, repeat from * 19 times, ch2, skip 2 sts, 1 dc in the next st, ch 2, sl st to the ch 3.

Round 13: ch3 (counts as the first st of the "scale", turn your work sideways and work 4 dc on the post of the first dc, ch 1, turn your work 180 degrees and work 5 dc on the post of the 2nd dc, ch 1, *skip ch2-space - 1 dc - ch2-space, work 5 dc on the post of the first dc, ch 1, turn your work 180 degrees and work 5 dc on the post of the 2nd dc, ch 1 - repeat from * to the ends of the round, insert hook to the top of ch 3 and dc of the previous round, connect with sl.st.. You have 20 "scales".

Round 14: ch 3, 1 dc into the same st, *ch 2, 1 dc in the center of the "scale", ch 2, 2 dc in the ch1-space between 2 "scales": insert the hook under both ch 1-space and dc of the previous (round 12) round in order to secure/anchor the "scale", repeat from * to the end of the round, sl st to top of ch 3.

Round 15: work like round 13, "scales" are worked on 2dc-groups and their position shifts in every odd round.

Repeat rounds 12-15 11 more times or to desired height of the backpack. There will be 24 rows of "scales".

Repeat round 14 one more time to make an "eyelet row", then work one round of dc.

Tie off.

Round Flap

With yarn A, ch 5, join with sl st to form a ring.

Round 1: ch 3 (count as 1 dc), 11 dc in ring, sl st to to top of ch 3. (12 sts)

Round 2: ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in the same st, 2 dc into each dc around, sl st to top of ch 3. (24 sts)

Round 3: ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in the same st, *1 dc in the next dc, 2 dc in next dc, repeat from * around to last dc, 1 dc in the last dc, sl st to top of ch 3 (36 sts)

Round 4: ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in the same st, *1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, 2 dc in the next dc, repeat from * around to last 2dc, 1 dc in each of the last 2 dc, sl st to top of ch 3. (48 sts)

Round 5: ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in the same st, *1 dc in each of the next 3 dc, 2 dc in the next dc, repeat from * around to last 3 dc, 1 dc in each of the last 3 dc, sl st to top of ch 3 (60 sts)

Round 6: ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in the same st, *1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, 2 dc in the next dc, repeat from * around to last 4 dc, 1 dc in each of the last 4 dc, sl st to top of ch 3 (72 sts)

Round 7: ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in the same st, *1 dc in each of the next 5 dc, 2 dc in the next dc, repeat from * around to last 5 dc, 1 dc in each of the last 5 dc, sl st to top of ch 3 (84 sts)

Round 8: ch1, *skip 2 dc, 7 dc in the next dc, skip 2 dc, 1sc in the next dc - repeat from * around till the last 5 dc, skip 2 dc, 7 dc in the next dc, skip 2 dc, sc in the ch1-space. Tie off.

Straps

With yarn A ch 8

Row 1: ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 7 dc. Turn.

Repeat row 1 until desired length of the strap. Tie off.

Make 2 straps.

Finishing

Secure the straps at the bottom of the backpack and at the top. Sew on the flap at the same place where the straps are attached.

Crochet a chain drawstring and thread into the "eyelet" row of the backpack.

Crochet a chain loop and attach it to the flap. Sew on the button.

Enjoy!